I powered the board to check if the 5V inpunt pad is ok and the multimeter detects 5V input(pin1) but withtout U15 of course i cannot get 3.3V. I checked with a multimeter and I noted there is a short on the VOUT of the U15 regulator, I desoldered U15 to check clearly where the short is and the pad at Vout is still shorted (resistance about 1.1Ohm) to ground.
I then removed the E0 driver and even if I remove all the drivers I got the board not working. Very hot U15 and TMC driver E0 and I switched off. No issues, then I started the process again with a Y Z with motors, and everything was OK.Īt some point but I cannot replicate anymore I added E0 driver(TMC5160-1.2 but without the LP pin modded) and motors and weird issues appeared.Īs soon I powered the board I recognized no power LEDs on at the 3.3V rail LEDs, near to the U15 regulator. I then Connected the driver on X axis and powre up them with the Motor Board(12V as test and one motor), but powering the electronics at the USB-C (the 5V power jumper still set as closed). I them programmed the new klipper wiith TMC5160-1.2(with the modded wire SLP pin to GND and removed to the header ) with SPI configuration(and jumpers set as 1-2(on the MSx pins). I power up the first time from the USB-C and the board was Ok. Initeresting, I got the same issue on my Octopus v1.1.
I'd suggest starting with a different small as card (they get crupted pretty easily). I inserted the card and pressed the reset button. I've had issues in the past with larger cards. I used an 16gb SD fat32 format with firmware.bin in the root directory with nothing else on it. Riprap need an updated bootloader and I'm not sure about klipper. Btt recommends updating firmware via the SD card instead of via the stm software because it's fairly complicated. There is already be a bootloader pre installed.
With regards to the bootloader it is my understanding that the stm software is to update the bootloader not load the bootloader. 0 is the best tool to bypass the Samsung Google account verification if you. I'm not sure what of this combination worked for me but it was a little touchy getting it to connect to the pc via the bootloader software. In case you did not find your device supporting a combination file hence you. Had the software running when I reconnected the board. Installed the jumpers and used an actual USB 3.0 cable.
Took the board completely out of the printer. On a windows computer I went under device manager and deleted all of the com ports. It took a little persuasion to get mine to connect.